The Red Rabbit Kitchen & Bar is one of the driving forces behind Sacramento’s rise to craft-cocktail prominence

When Imbibe magazine listed Sacramento as one of the top 10 “places to visit in 2013” because of its surging craft-cocktail culture, it seemed as if by some divine alchemy the local drink scene finally made it onto the radar of cocktail enthusiasts on a national level.

At the crux of the movement promoting the local hand-crafted dram is The Red Rabbit Kitchen and Bar, where you’ll only find cocktails created from the ground up—homemade syrups, freshly squeezed juices and ingredients like fresh, hand-muddled herbs join the party in the glass.

“This year we’ve had a lot of national, and some international, focus on Sacramento as being a legitimate cocktail town,” says Matthew Nurge, one of the restaurant’s partners. “To be mentioned now in the same conversation as Portland, as Seattle, as New York and San Francisco is awesome.”

When longtime friends Nurge and Sonny Mayugba (chef John Bays is also a part owner) opened the doors to their hare-themed restaurant in February 2012, their vision was simple: to create a chill environment where cocktail nerds and neophytes alike could luxuriate in high-quality food and drink.

“The whole idea behind this restaurant is we wanted to do kind of a sexy upscale atmosphere, but we really wanted the attitude to be casual and easy and simple,” Nurge says. “So the whole idea between both the food program and the bar program is that we come up with simple, delicious, affordable food and beverage. We want to be a neighborhood craft bar, our motto is ‘Raising the Neighborhood Bar,’ so we wanted to have the same casual vibe of a neighborhood joint with some good stuff—good food and drink.”

A sentiment embraced by the cheerful and enthusiastic staff behind the bar.

“We work really hard to make sure that everyone who comes in here feels welcome. There’s a complete lack of pretension that’s in here,” says Christopher Sinclair, Red Rabbit bartender and president of the Sacramento Bartenders Guild. “It sort of oozes out of the walls. I mean from the way that we talk to each other to the way we talk to our customers.”

Much like the “farm-to-fork” movement that’s filled the bellies of local foodies, a burgeoning “farm-to-glass” campaign is starting to resonate with those looking to get their quaff on.

“People see beverages the same way they see food,” Nurge says. “They want great chefs using great products and making them great food, [and] they want great bartenders using great products to make great drinks.”

Nurge, a Sacramento native and self-professed “cocktail nerd” cut his teeth in the bar business as a youngster hanging out with his mother while she tended bar at Joe Marty’s on Broadway, but perfected his skills as a mixologist at R15 and The Shady Lady Saloon.

Boasting an eclectic roster of spirits, the cocktail menu is a throwback to the fine art of cocktail-making that was the hallmark of the pre-prohibition era.

“Some of them are from old recipes dating back to the 1800s and some of them are kind of modern twists on some of those,” Nurge says. “It’s kind of an amalgamation of that, some are mine, some are stolen, some were lost to history.”

Nurge credits partner Mayugba, yes, the same Mayugba that put out the seditious zine Heckler back in the day, as the “super-connector” for bringing together a brilliant cast of restaurant and bar industry talents—including longtime chef John Bays, who honed his culinary chops in the kitchens of heavy-hitting restaurants like Mulvaney’s B&L, Morton’s and Rio City Cafe.

“I’ve never known anyone in my life who can get things done as easily as he can, he just says things and makes them so,” Nurge gushes about Mayugba. “There’s almost something magical about it, he puts it out there and it just happens. So, Sonny put us together, basically.”

The cocktail menu is an exercise in restraint—you won’t find an encyclopedia-sized treatise of offerings—mixed with cheeky nods to social movements (Harvey Milk punch), historical references (Krakow salt mine) and literature, like the trio of tastings inspired by Chuck Palahniuk’s Fight Club.

“First rule of ‘flight club’ is you don’t talk about it,” Nurge jokes. “The ‘flight club’ is just a simple idea I had to help introduce people to things that maybe they haven’t tried before. It’s an affordable way to try new things or to try things that you already love. The price is ridiculously low. I mean it’s $15 for three tastes and some of the stuff you might get in there is $15 a pour on its own. It’s a fun way to get people to try new stuff; that was my intention, anyway.”

Nurge adds that bartender culture also served as inspiration for one of the libations on the Red Rabbit menu.

“With the ‘buck hunter,’ the style of cocktail is a buck (a class of cocktail that mixes ginger beer or ginger ale with citrus and spirits) and Buck Hunter is a video game that bartenders like to play,” Nurge says. “For whatever reason, I don’t know why [Buck Hunter], somehow became synonymous with bartenders.”

With Midtown Cocktail Week quickly approaching, another reason for the nod to the local liquid culture by the editors of Imbibe, Nurge and the rest of the Red Rabbit contingent are planning a bevy of activities surrounding the fete. From a competition that takes its inspiration from the three-legged races of family reunions and picnics, involving a suit in which two bartenders will literally be attached at the hip, to a pop-up event demonstrating the talents of its drink-slinging employees, the Red Rabbit is gearing up for the alcohol-infused festivities.

“On Sunday, Aug. 25, 2013, we have an event called ‘Best in Show,’” Nurge says. “We’re the last event, and the last event tends to be kind of what we’ve dubbed the closing party. It’s sponsored by Maker’s Mark, and we’re doing a blue ribbon county fair meets pig roast event, so we’ll have carnival games and prizes and a nice, big, fat pig roasting in a box.”

At the core of the Red Rabbit’s bar program is a dedication to quality ingredients, but it’s the partners’ belief in, and commitment to, the ideals surrounding the locavore movement that extends beyond the bar and spills out onto just about every facet of its business model that makes it so distinctive.

“We have a program, the employee incentive program; not that anyone’s made too many dollars from it, but every employee here is actually a part owner,” Nurge explains. “So the employees collectively own five percent [of the business].”

The partners are looking to expand the reach of the hare; Nurge alludes to a possible expansion effort into “The Kay” district and hints at even breaking with a few craft-cocktail traditions when Sinclair suggests the addition of milkshakes to the menu.

“That means we need a blender,” Nurge retorts. “I’ve been on a no blender rule for like eight years. When the whole cocktail resurgence started, everyone who thought they knew something, thought they knew everything, so all of a sudden there were all of these new rules. You know, like no one makes Long Islands, no one carries Jägermeister, no one has a blender, no one carries Red Bull or blue Curaçao.”

“Jäger’s actually great. Bros don’t shoot it anymore,” Sinclair chides. “Fireball took over, so now it’s socially acceptable to drink Jäger.”

After surviving a year in one of the toughest businesses to break through in, as well as a nasty smear campaign by a disgruntled Yelper, the Red Rabbit endeavors to follow in the footsteps of its block mates, notably, Harlow’s and Centro.

“I think we just have a rad concept. We have good product, at what I believe is a good value, and we have good people that work for us,” Nurge says. “That’s a big key to the success of this business.”

Nurturing the talent in its ranks, while looking to spread the gospel of the Sacramento craft-cocktail scene, Nurge is thrilled by, and, most importantly, supports his employees’ desire to travel the world in search of inspiration—from competitions in Chicago to Puerto Rico.

“I get to meet awesome bartenders and see what they’re doing outside of just our little bubble,” Sinclair says. “It also allows me to spread the good word that is Sacramento and get people really, really excited about coming here and getting excited about seeing this place and bring sort of the appreciation the city deserves, as well as this restaurant.”

The philosophy of craft doctrine also appears to be spilling out into the corporate market—with franchises like Disney and Applebee’s serving up their own craft-inspired cocktails on their respective menus. The movement looks like it’s gaining some serious mainstream credence.

“That’s why T.G.I. Friday’s has craft cocktails on their menu now,” Nurge explains. “It’s everywhere, it’s spreading, but in a good way. It’s a pain in the ass—just ask Carlos over there—to juice for five hours a day, but the end result in the product is irreplaceable.”

Best in Show, The Red Rabbit’s official Midtown Cocktail Week event, will take place from 1 to 4 p.m. on Aug. 25. Admission is free. For a full list of MCW events, go to Midtowncocktailweek.org.

Sacramento’s Top Bartenders Talk Brews and Booze

Words by Submerge Staff

We probably don’t have to tell you that Sacramento has many talented bartenders. If you’ve ever sipped on a concoction from the masterminds at places like Shady Lady Saloon, The Red Rabbit, Grange or a number of other joints around town, you know what we’re talking about. Much like the musicians and artists we regularly feature in the pages of Submerge, Sacramento’s best bartenders have an extraordinary amount of passion for their craft and a ton of talent. With the fifth annual Midtown Cocktail Week happening from Aug. 19 through 26, 2012, Submerge decided to catch up with some of our region’s finest mixologists so that you, our valued readers, can learn a little bit about the folks that mix, muddle, shake, stir, garnish and serve your drinks.

Midtown Cocktail Week’s theme this year is “A Spirited Debate” (get it, it’s an election year!), so all of the host venues have come up with “political party” names like the Free Thinkers (Ink Eats and Drinks), Forza Italia (Hot Italian), the Kennedy Conspiracy (Blackbird Kitchen and Bar) and the American Bourbon Drinkers Union (Golden Bear). On Tuesday, Aug. 21 2012 catch these bartenders, as well as a number of others not featured here, represent their respective political parties at the “Super Tuesday” Bartenders Cocktail Competition at Shady Lady. Or, just stop in and say hello to them on any given night and see them in their zone, we’re sure they’d be happy to make you a drink. And hey, at least now you’ll know what they prefer after a long shift so you can buy them a round!

Christopher Sinclair

Representing The Red Rabbit {AKA RR Party}

How long have you been tending bar?
In October, I will have been behind the stick for a decade.

Where can people currently find you serving up drinks?
I work behind the bar at The Red Rabbit Thursday through Monday nights and co-own Coley’s Flask and Co., a cocktail company specializing in private events and cocktail and bar consulting.

After a long shift…shot, beer, cocktail? All of the above?
I’ve got to be honest, I love a crappy beer and a shot of whiskey, or tequila. Honestly Oly [Olympia], PBR or preferably Miller Low-Life makes me feel so much better. I’ve read a ton of responses to bartenders all over the country who have admitted to liking crappy beer like I do that have been super negative and degrading–this sucks. Honestly at the end of a long shift, nine times out of 10, I’m too tired to want to think about the flavor of anything I’m drinking. Of course I geek out and love complex and fascinating wine, beer or other. All I’m saying is at that time I just want cold, refreshing booze.

Favorite bar you’ve ever been to?
It really depends. I have been to a great many bars I have loved and honestly never wanted to leave (despite the bartenders ushering movements). Ranstead Room in Philadelphia is unbelievably cool. It is so sexy and chill in there that just thinking about it now kind of makes me tingle. If you come to my bar on any given night and tell me to surprise you, you will most likely find me giving you the drink that they served up to me. Rickhouse in San Francisco has got to be the bar I’ve been to the most to celebrate anything, for any reason. I have such a great time there every time. Not to mention a ton of Sacramento bartenders have worked behind that bar. The thing that really makes a good bar, though, are the bartenders, not the bar itself. The bar is just a frame, the bartender and the service they provide are the painting. I have been to bars with peanuts on the floor and bars where a well drink costs damn near as much as a car payment, but the only thing that really mattered was the fun time I had. It is because of this that my all time favorite bar has to be The Rabbit. I know, I know. Shameless self promotion and all, but really, the bar staff there not only is super knowledgeable and can whip up a drink made with anything from Sriracha to twinkies or gin. But we all love what we do. We love coming to work and love making people smile.

What drink do you make that best describes your style?
The Daiquiri, classically speaking. It’s a super simple drink, really easy to make with only three ingredients (rum, lime, sugar. No, not whipped cream), and it’s so incredibly tasty. There are so many ways it has been maligned over the years, but the original Cuban drink has to be one of my all time favorites. Its foundation is present in many other popular drinks like the Mojito, Caipirinha, Old Cuban and so many more. It’s such a versatile drink and is so solid at its core that it can play well with almost anything you throw at it. My hope is that my skills are fundamentally sound, while still playful with variables, like this drink.

Patrick O’Neil

Representing Blackbird {AKA The Kennedy Conspiracy Party}

How long have you been tending bar?
I started tending bar full-time back in 2008. I’ve been in the restaurant business since I was 15 years old. I started off as a busser at a brewery In Southern California where I’m from. Then worked my way to the bar as a bar back by the time I was 18. Something about being behind the bar was exciting to me. I would always try and pour beers and make cocktails even though I was not of age, so I just had to be sly about it. If you got a drink from me back then it was probably an eight count as opposed to the standard four.

Where can people currently find you serving up drinks?
I currently reside at Blackbird Kitchen and Bar. We opened at the beginning of April. I had met Carina Lampkin (chef/owner) a couple times in the months before. I knew that I wanted to come work for her. The name alone sucked me in. So I bugged her for a while and she finally gave me the job. The Blackbird flock is quite a mixed bag of talent. It’s awesome to be able to come to work every day and just get inspired by what Kevin [O’Connor, Chef de Cuisine] and Carina are doing in the kitchen with our food, and it fires me up to create cocktails that are up to the standards of our food, which is very fuckin’ high.

After a long shift…shot, beer, cocktail? All of the above?
I’ll usually walk down the street to Henry’s and order a Bud Light and a shot of Fernet. Which usually leads to more and more of that. The Fernet shots Matt pours over there are huge man. But it’s the perfect cure for busting your ass all night, and if you know you put everything you had into service that night, it’s damn rewarding. After that it’s home to play with the dog.

Favorite bar you’ve ever been to?
My favorite bar has to be The Continental Room in Fullerton, Calif., my hometown. It’s the oldest bar in that city. It’s dark as hell, smells like an old stogie that was lit up probably 40 years ago is still lingering. The booths have the old school button you push that lights up a bulb above your booth to let your server know you’re ready for another. I know I’ve probably pissed a few of them off after a night with my good friend Jameson. Every Wednesday they have an Elvis impersonator who does like three sets a night. And of course the drinks are awesome. They don’t do much as far as modern cocktails, which is what makes it even that much more special. I love when people just do what they want and believe in and if you don’t like it, that’s your problem dude. That “we ain’t changin’ for no one” attitude is what it’s all about. It’s like when you write music. You write what you want to hear, or at least I do. You have to believe in what you do. It might not be for everyone but it will mean everything to some. So many great bars here in Sac also. I’m grateful for all the spots I’ve tended and a huge shout to the guys over at Shady, Jason [Boggs], Alex [Origoni] and Garret [Van Vleck], those guys have been my boys for a long time and working there was what lit the fire for me to want to step up my game.

What drink do you make that best describes your style?
A cocktail I made recently called the “William Tell.” Maker’s Mark, Antica Carpano, Cherry Heerings, Luxardo and orange juice. I was taking light rail to work on a Monday, we are closed on Mondays, so I like to come in and workshop some drinks and see what happens. But I was listening to the Brand New song “You Won’t Know,” and there are some references to William Tell in that song. Got to work and started playing around and all of the sudden I had this cocktail. I was happy with everything in it. Then I threw a slice of green apple over a rock cube and threw a cherry on top of it and there it was in front of me. And the name sealed it. I love when you can take something so simple as a song and use that inspiration to make a cocktail. There is nothing better than a drink that has a story behind it. Guests love to hear that stuff and I love to tell it. Pun intended. William Tell has his legend and I am glad I can pay it my respect.

Jocelyn McGregor

Representing Ink Eats & Drinks {AKA Free Thinkers Party}

How long have you been tending bar?
I’ve been bartending a little over three years.

Where can people currently find you serving up drinks?
I’m pouring, shaking and stirring at Ink Eats and Drinks in Midtown, but if you adventurous, I also run the Lamplighter Bar out at Burning Man.

After a long shift…shot, beer, cocktail? All of the above?
It’s usually a shot of Jameson and a PBR. But if it’s a particularly long and trying day, it just may require a double Jameson and ginger or quite possibly multiple shots of Fireball. Since Ink is open until 4 a.m., there’s always a chance that you may just catch me (and the sturdier members of my late night crew) for first call and Irish Coffee at Zebra Club!

Favorite bar you’ve ever been to?
Although I do enjoy a fancy cocktail, something infused and topped with an exotic foam, my favorite bar is a dive bar. If you ever have a chance, I suggest you stop in at Buckshot in San Francisco. Each wall is an eclectic mix of Bob Ross paintings, skateboards, Kiss dolls and various taxidermied critters. You can get beer in a can, play an assortment of bar games and don’t forget to try their “Chicken Fried Bacon” with maple syrup on the side. Once again, if you’re ever out at Burning Man, I do suggest finding the 7 Sins Bar or the Party Naked bar. No details, you’ll have to experience those first hand.

What drink do you make that best describes your style?
At a base level, I’m a total nerd. I love science and I love to cook, bake and get creative with it. Any time I can combine that with cocktails I’m a happy camper. I’m constantly trying to create new cocktails with homemade syrups, preserves, purees and anything else I can get my hands on. Bacon? Tea? Yep, I’ll put that in a cocktail! I never know quite how they’ll work out, but I never have a lack of people willing to try them. Cocktails are one big, involved science project for me. Sometimes they’re a first place winner, sometimes they totally suck. But I like to play “I win” so I’m always back at the drawing board.

Brad Peters

Representing Centro {AKA Mezcalistas Party}

How long have you been tending bar?
Six years.

Where can people currently find you serving up drinks?
Centro Cocina Mexicana, Shady Lady Saloon and Pour House.

After a long shift…shot, beer, cocktail? All of the above?
Honestly, a pillow. If I am going to have a drink it’ll most likely be a beer.

Favorite bar you’ve ever been to?
Great question, I would have to give a top 5 in no particular order: Clyde Common (Portland, Ore.), Rob Roy (Seattle), Noble Experiment (San Diego), 15 Romolo (San Francisco), The Patterson House (Nashville, Tenn.).

What drink do you make that best describes your style?
Manhattan. Simple, classic, straightforward.

Ryan Seng

Representing Grange Restaurant & Bar {AKA Barrel Dandy Party}

How long have you been tending bar?
I started tending bar full-time about seven years ago. Before that I was serving, bussing, line cooking and dishwashing.

Where can people currently find you serving up drinks?
Just at Grange, on top of my art career. I did the painting at Shady Lady, and being a father of three, one job is enough. I opened Shady, but too many gigs is not fun.

After a long shift…shot, beer, cocktail? All of the above?
After work drink is what is in the cabinet above my refrigerator. I just finished off a Glenfiddich 18 that I was mixing with Galliano’s vintage recipe and Angostura. Those were good. Wine and gin and tonics are also grand!

Favorite bar you’ve ever been to?
Bourbon & Branch, Rickhouse, Comstock Saloon, Shady Lady, but the place that really started it for me was the Flatiron Lounge in New York, back in 2003 or so.

What drink do you make that best describes your style?
Currently I guess the “No Pimm’s Pimm’s Cup” or the “London Style California Gin Flight,” both on our Olympic happy hour. I like drinks that are color smart, playful, thoughtful.

Amy Battaglia

Representing Golden Bear {AKA American Bourbon Drinkers Union Party}

How long have you been tending bar?
Well, I’ve tended bar on and off for a few years, but never at a place that had embraced the classic cocktail until The Golden Bear. I’ve learned so much in the last year from working with people like Chris Tucker and Tyler Williams that, in a way, I can say I’ve been bartending for years.

Where can people currently find you serving up drinks?
The Golden Bear!

After a long shift…shot, beer, cocktail? All of the above?
A long shift definitely ends with a shot of Jameson. After that, it all depends on my mood.

Favorite bar you’ve ever been to?
That’s a tough question! I really like Heaven’s Dog in San Francisco. They’ve got a great cocktail program and walls adorned with rad paintings of pit bulls.

What drink do you make that best describes your style?
The Bond Girl. Dewar’s White label, Campari, Peychaud’s bitters, vanilla bean simple syrup and grapefruit juice. While not everyone wants to get down with a peat monster served neat, I hate hearing the phrase, “I don’t like scotch.” Scotches can be so complex, and thus rewarding to mix with, and the vanilla/citrus combo in the Bond Girl mellows the smokiness into something everyone can dig.

Ian Beightler

Representing Hot Italian {AKA Forza Italia Party}

How long have you been tending bar?
I’ve been bartending for roughly five years and I love it! I’m always learning new things and meeting interesting people. I’ve spent some time in Tahoe as well as Sacramento learning the trade and always like the change of scenery to introduce you to new spirits, pun intended.

Where can people currently find you serving up drinks?
I currently make magic behind the bar at Hot Italian. We have an elite team of personalities and wonderful people. They are definitely my second family.

After a long shift…shot, beer, cocktail? All of the above?
After a long shift I like to settle into a pint of my current obsession. However, depending on the company and atmosphere shots and cocktails are not far from my thoughts. If I’m taking shots it’s usually whiskey and if I’m drinking cocktails I’ll let the bar menu decide. I’m up for trying new things; however, when I’m out I also stick to what I know and drink the classics.

Favorite bar you’ve ever been to?
Asking me what my favorite bar is would be like asking me to choose my favorite movie, impossible to pick just one. I like to enjoy different environments whether it be a classy joint or a run down dive bar, I’ve seen it all. I’m really enjoying what Sacramento has to offer as far as creative cocktails, compelling atmosphere and style. When I think favorite bars I’m immediately drawn to alluring cocktails. But scenery in and out play a big part, I like to feel relaxed and as though I’m on vacation at my “favorite bar.”

What drink do you make that best describes your style?
I created a custom cocktail that infuses cucumbers and jalapeños in a refreshing yet spicy cocktail. I call it “Between the Sheets,” because it’s hot. It’s an off menu cocktail. I bring classic ingredients together with wild card spirits to form a perfect combination and taste that you would otherwise disregard.

Submerge Facebook friends chime in on their favorite cocktails

We have a ton of input on cocktails and booze from Sacramento bartenders in this issue, so we figured we should ask our friends on Facebook what their favorite cocktails in town were and where they get them. You have a voice too, after all, and apparently a lot of you love Shady Lady. Here are some of your responses!

Adrienne Cheng says, “Hibiscus margarita from Tres Hermanas, just be careful, Jared has heavy hands.”

Breanna Giannotti says her fave is “the basil gimlet at Shady Lady.”

Jimmy Bell agrees with Giannotti on locale: “The Missy Bell at the Shady. Our favorite breakfast drink.”

Noel Matthew DeWitt says, “Vodka soda and Jameson shot, Press Club! I love that place.”

Phil McNeill says, “Ball and a Bat at Clark’s Corner, it’s a 24oz Pabst and a shot of well whiskey for six bucks, can’t go wrong!”

He later chimed in again with, “For a frou-frou drink, go get the Sex Kitten at Hideaway, I’m not into them kinda drinks, but that one sets the standard.”

Jennafer Phillips says she is all about the “Zombie Brains shooter from Powerhouse Pub on a Wednesday night!”

Anne Laccopucci and Chris and Marita Hambek all agree on “the Bloody Mary at 33rd Street Bistro.”

Joseph Davancens thinks “If specialty is the real question, Horses Neck at Shady. The tenders know how to respectfully pour whiskey.”

Apparently Anthony Lee Pellerin is on the same page as Davencens because his response was simply, “Old Fashioned at Shady Lady!”

And last but not least, Jarrod Affonso digs the “Blackberry Crush from Dive Bar.”