Sacramento Embraces Craft Cocktails

Words by Adam Saake – Photos by Nicolas Wray

With Midtown Cocktail Week just barely behind us, the craft cocktail resurgence seems to have hit Sacramento full-blown. The customer dialogue has changed from, “Well is fine” to “What gins do you have behind the bar?” And curiosity isn’t far behind. These more educated enjoyers of quality spirits want to know what it is, what’s in it, and where can I find it? Put down the Puckers and pick up the muddlers; freshness now reigns supreme. The usual suspects have been holding down the artform for some time; familiar names like Lounge on 20, Shady Lady and Ella come to mind. But now it’s tough to throw a rock and not hit a Collins glass with Green Chartreuse somewhere inside of it. The result is a plethora of interesting cocktails to be sampled, and everyone’s getting in on it.

Bartenders are stepping up to this challenge and becoming more educated themselves; many of them entering competitions locally and beyond to sharpen their skills and test their hands at speed or flair. Brands often endorse these competitions, encouraging bartenders to experiment with their spirits and create something interesting that may be marketable. Wowing the judges takes more than just making a tasty cocktail; technique and presentation is key and often-homemade garnishes or unique glassware help set the competition apart.

One such competition at Zocalo that happened recently challenged local bartenders to think creatively with the coffee and rum liqueur Kahlua. Chris Dooley of Ella, Travis Kavanaugh and Dominique Gonzales of Shady Lady and Amy Battaglia of The Golden Bear were among the chosen few to try out their cocktail recipes for a panel of judges. Dooley’s personality shone bright through his cocktail he named “The Veracruz,” after the Mexican state where Kahlua is produced. Made up of Kahlua, fresh espresso, bitters, Fernet Blanca, Bulleit bourbon and garnished with mint, orange, nutmeg and shaved chocolate, this stunning cocktail was a sight to behold.

“Well, Kahlua for me personally is a dessert, after-dinner cocktail. So everything in there screams ‘after dinner’; the digestif [Fernet], the espresso, the Kahlua, the chocolate,” said Dooley.

Dooley served it in a stemless martini glass that rested in another oval-shaped glass filled with frozen espresso beans to keep the drink chilled. The “Veracruz” landed Dooley in second place, but the experience of being able to toy around with Kahlua, a liqueur that bartenders rarely experiment with, was worth it.

“I like to explore the diversity of it; to be able to try different applications,” Dooley expressed.

But in the end it wasn’t the Kahlua that threw Dooley for a loop.

“Anything I can add Fernet into is a challenge for me,” said Dooley.

First place was awarded to Midtown Cocktail Week’s “Rookie of the Year” Travis Kavanaugh of Shady Lady for an 11-ingredient cocktail that took 11 tries to get just right. He named it “Nuevo,” fittingly, and the judges might have scored it just that high on a scale of one to 10. Kavanaugh says that “for about a week, all I did was mess with Kahlua.” The result was a seemingly impossible blend of Kahlua, rye whiskey, Angostura bitters, orange bitters, maple syrup, Heering cherry liqueur, pineapple, egg white, nutmeg, orange zest and muddled coffee beans. Kavanaugh served his cocktail in a 5½ ounce coupe glass, which meant that all those ingredients had to be combined in very limited amounts to get the cocktail to fit just right. And although it took 11 tries and one week later to arrive at his final product, he enjoys the challenge of figuring out how to make it all work.

“I like competitions. Anytime I have something to mess with and break it down and just use it for a whole week, I think is really cool,” says Kavanaugh.

The time that is spent off the clock, at home or after hours, perfecting a syrup or portioning out the recipe just right, is what separates bartenders like Kavanaugh and Dooley from the rest. They aren’t alone. And bartenders who work at restaurants that may not be on the top of your craft cocktail destination list are starting to follow suit. Take, for example, Lucca bartender Chris Mansury, who is doing some very interesting things behind the bar.

Fascinating things have been done with the Bloody Mary in this town, including some amazing heirloom tomato Bloody Marys done by Chris Tucker at the now closed (sadly) L Wine Lounge. But, Mansury is taking it to a new level. His concoction is called the Hanoi Jane, which he says is a “Vietnamese-inspired version of the Bloody Mary using pho broth, Sriracha, garlic, basil and green onion.” If that isn’t enticing enough, he then salts the rim with a beef jerky salt he made and then garnishes it with basil, lime and jalapeno.

“I created it as a combination of two of my favorite hangover cures,” says Mansury.

Another interesting notable is Mansury’s Pear Basil Highball that he’s spiked with something called a shrub.

“A shrub is basically a syrup made of fruit, sugar and vinegar in equal parts,” says Mansury. “Shrubs derive from the Persian sherbert [sharbaat] which is widely regarded as the world’s original soft drink.”

Forget about pre-prohibition, Mansury is tapping into some old-school stuff here. His shrub is essentially simple syrup that’s a lot brighter with the addition of apple cider vinegar. He adds the classic combination of bourbon and ginger ale and the end product is a refreshing and balanced cocktail that screams end of summer, beginning of fall.

It goes beyond the simple “what do I have behind my bar,” and becomes a process of research and study that is fueled by passion (and maybe a few too many taste tests) where the goal is to make something handmade and unique; to discover a combination that works. The competitions are good inspiration, a way to stand out and crash course a particular spirit, but mostly it’s a love for blowing a customer’s mind when they try something they’ve never experienced before. Maybe it sounds a little geeky, but everything high-tech and cool that you own is the result of some guy or some gal sticking their nose way deep down the rabbit hole. Cocktails may not be high-tech per se, but the more out-there the ingredients and flavors get, the more challenging it becomes to make it all work together. Hence the term, “mixology.” Don’t expect to see beakers in the place of shakers, but the science of it all will be perfect for wetting that whistle.

With Midtown Cocktail Week falling perfectly during this issue (it takes place Aug. 15—21 at various bars and restaurants), we took it upon ourselves to dedicate “Submerge Your Senses” to this oh-so-delicious week filled with unique cocktails, cool hands-on classes, exciting competitions, fun themed parties and so much more. If just for this one week, set the High Life down, back away from the IPA and indulge in the finest cocktails and mixed drinks from the region’s best bartenders. Outlined below are a few of our editors’ picks for the week. For more information, head to Midtowncocktailweek.org.

TOUCH
Home Bartending Classes

One of the coolest things about Midtown Cocktail Week is their lineup of hands-on home bartender classes. First up is the “How to Throw a Punch Bowl Bunco Party” class on Monday, Aug. 15 from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. at Restaurant Thir13en (1300 H Street). In this class, home bartender students learn how to create tasty punch bowl drinks (both with and without alcohol), perfect for your next party or gathering. All students take home a punch bowl and their very own recipes. The class is just $25 and lunch is included. Next is the “Home Bartender 101 With a Taste of Italy” class on Saturday, Aug. 20 from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. at Hot Italian (16th and Q streets). Taught by last year’s Midtown Cocktail Week Mixology Competition champion Russell Eastman, this class will give students some insight into basic bartending skills for either entertaining guests or for concocting your ultimate home recipes with, of course, Italian influences. All students take home a special gift bag and lunch is included with the $25 ticket. The third and final offering is the “Home Bartending 102 With a Thai Twist” class on Sunday, Aug. 21 from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. at Level Up Lounge (2326 K Street). To take this class you will need to have basic knowledge of home bartending skills and a previous class under your belt. It will be taught by a local celebrity bartender, and students will enjoy five cocktail and cuisine pairings, all the while learning about flavors and techniques involved in Thai mixology. Each student will take home a special gift bag and tickets are just $25. For $10 extra you can snag a complete home bartending kit, or if you sign up for both the Saturday and Sunday classes, the kit is free! Already a bartender? There are “Industry Only” classes for you, too! They are even free of charge, and all Sacramento-area bar staff is welcome. For more information on those, visit Midtown Cocktail Weeks’ website.

SEE
The Science of Food and Drink on Aug. 20 at Lounge on 20

This will be by far the nerdiest event during Midtown Cocktail Week, not that that’s a bad thing. Everyone’s got a little nerd in them (some more than others). On Saturday, Aug. 20 from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. at Lounge on 20 (1050 20th Street), witness a night of science-meets-mixology. One of the hottest trends in the cocktail world at the moment is “molecular mixology” and at this event you’ll get to witness some of the mad-scientist type stuff go down right in front of your own eyes. Molecular mixology is the term applied to the process of creating cocktails using the scientific equipment and techniques of molecular gastronomy, also a popular trend in the food world. Using these methods bartenders around the world are creating greater intensities and varieties of flavors and textures and are finding different ways of presenting drinks, for example using powders, gels, foams, mists, atomized sprays, etc. Sounds cool, right? That’s because it is, so don’t miss this event. Extra credit points for those who dress in a lab coat and safety goggles (not really, but that would be pretty awesome if you did).

HEAR
Who Will Be Named Midtown Cocktail Week’s Mixology Competition Champion?

One event you’ll be sure to want to attend is the Mixology Competition on Tuesday, Aug. 16 at Red Lotus (2716 J Street) from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Cheer on some of your favorite bartenders from the region, including (but not limited to) Dominique Gonzales (representing Zocalo, the only female in the competition), Chris Tucker (representing Golden Bear), Josh Carlson (representing Lounge on 20), Travis Kavanaugh (representing Shady Lady) and Robbie Schmitz (representing Lucca Restaurant and Bar), as they concoct delicious and unique punch bowl style cocktails. The 10 contestants all drew out of a hat one week prior to the competition to determine what spirit they will be using in their punch bowls so they could plan out their drinks. The five top-shelf spirits they chose from included Oxley Gin, Appleton Estate Reserve Rum, Famous Grouse Scotch, Casa Noble Tequila and Buffalo Trace Bourbon. Who will win the coveted title? You’ll have to show up to find out! After the competition, follow the crowd upstairs to Blue Cue for a rocking after party featuring live entertainment and guest bartenders.

TASTE
Artisan Food and Drink Pairings at The Stately State of Local Food and Drink

On Wednesday, Aug. 17, Shady Lady (1409 R Street) is hosting a late night (9 p.m. to closing) event called The Stately State of Local Food and Drink where guests will enjoy artisan food and drink pairings from Shady’s infamous bartenders and chefs. Come thirsty and hungry, leave tipsy and full.

Midtown Cocktail Week will raise your drink awareness
Words & Photos Anthony Giannotti

What is your favorite alcohol? Whiskey? Vodka? Tequila? How do you like to drink said favorite libation? Sip it? Shoot it? Mix it? Well no matter what your drink of choice is or how you prefer to get it down your throat, Midtown Cocktail Week will have an event for you. This week of cocktail enlightenment will be held Aug. 9—15, 2010 at various locations around Midtown Sacramento. It isn’t a week for just getting trashed and throwing up on your neighbor’s lawn–being a little tipsy may be a by-product of the festivities–but this week’s focus is cocktail education and appreciation. “Our goal is to educate people,” says Joe Anthony Savala, one of the event organizers and founder of the drink program at Zocalo. “We want people to drink better. People in Sacramento are eating better than ever, so why not drink better? We want them to know what fresh ingredients taste like. We also want people to get out and try new stuff!”

Education is an apparent theme in the week’s list of activities. Starting off the festivities on Monday will be L Wine Lounge, where the theme will be the art of drinking well, and timely drinks. They will be showing how you should be drinking through an entire meal, from aperitif to digestif. “We are excited to be involved again this year,” says Chris Tucker, lead mixologist of L. “We are trying to raise people’s expectations of their local bars.”

Tuesday’s events will give some of the local bartenders a chance to show off their chops with a mixology competition. This cocktail creation competition has a similar format to Iron Chef. The battle for cocktail king will take place at Lounge on 20.

For all you whiskey enthusiasts out there, De Veer’s Irish Pub will be showing off their impressive whiskey selection with their Whiskey Around the World tasting on Wednesday. The whiskey experts at De Veer’s will be sharing some pretty intense knowledge while helping you find a whiskey that suits your palate. So come with a thirst and an open mind. Shady Lady Saloon will be handling Wednesday’s after party, as well as hosting a number of their own events throughout the week. “We are really excited about this event,” says Shady Lady bartender Travis Kavanaugh. “We have different events going every night of the week.” Just a few of the special attractions at the Shady Lady during Midtown Cocktail Week will include a Don Julio presentation, a tiki-themed night, live hand-rolled cigars and visiting guest bartenders from San Francisco’s prohibition-themed saloon Bourbon and Branch.

“We really want people to know how much better fresh hand crafted cocktails taste,” Kavanaugh says.

Tequila guru Joe Anthony Savala breaks down Thursday’s activities at Zocalo. “I love Latin spirits–mezcal, pisco and tequila,” he says. “We want people to enjoy them as much as we do, that is why we are doing a mezcal tasting and education.” Zocalo will be sampling different mezcals from different regions of Mexico. They will also be demonstrating how you can make simple, fresh drinks from south of the border at home. As if a smorgasbord of tequila and regional Mexican food isn’t enough, notable fine dining restaurant and bar Ella will be dispensing late-night drinks and tastings to finish off the evening.

The new dim sum restaurant Red Lotus will be starting off Friday with specialty block ice cocktails. If you have not had a chance to indulge at Red Lotus, this would be a great time to sample from its diverse menu and try an Asian fusion cocktail. Grange will be closing out Friday with some local spirits and food pairing. To say that Sacramento is proud of its local produce is an understatement; we like to see it in our local restaurants. The staff at Grange Restaurant are also very strong believers in the slow food movement. “We have some really neat local alcohols and fresh local ingredients, as well as some very high profile bartenders guest spotting,” said Ryan Seng, mixologist at Grange.

We all know that The Golden Bear is known for their enticing front patio, tacos and $2 Miller High-Life, but on Saturday afternoon, be sure to investigate their newly remodeled back patio and freshly devised cocktail list. Sunday will kick off at Hot Italian for some unique Italian cocktails. I don’t know exactly what Italian cocktails consist of, but I’m sure my fellow I-tie’s will bring more flavor than Steve Zissou’s campari and grapefruit juice concoction. Sunday night the wrap party will be held at The Torch Club. The Torch Club was founded the year Prohibition ended, so come dressed in your best suspenders and flapper dresses. It will be a Prohibition-themed party featuring five classic drink recipes.

Remember these are just a few of the events at a few of the locations. Check Midtowncocktailweek.org or ask your favorite local bartender for a full list of events.