Device Brewing Company’s Ken Anthony Shows Passion in Every Pint

When I meet up with Device Brewing Company owner Ken Anthony, he’s visibly exhausted and endearingly blunt.

“I can’t really keep up with much but my beer. I don’t really care about press and that sort of stuff. I just brew and it kind of consumes me whole,” he says.

With one sip of his beer, you’ll understand exactly why he doesn’t have to.

Tuesdays are brew days at Device. Anthony spoke to me while he plugged and unplugged hoses, checked brew temperatures with enormous thermometers and busily paced back and forth in front of his brew kettles and fermentation tanks. He has been doing this same thing at his Power Inn brewery since at least 5 a.m., and has that brewer’s beard Sacramento is starting to become familiar with.

“I may or may not have paced through here sobbing a time or two,” he jokes, “It’s a tough job, believe it or not. There is a beautifully industrial nature to it.”

This wasn’t always how Anthony spent his days. A little over two years ago, he threw in the towel as a structural engineer, where his work left him underappreciated and under stimulated. Within a short time frame, he and his wife Melissa moved from San Diego to Sacramento, welcomed a son as well as pursued a new business venture: Device Brewing.

Anthony’s brewing background comes from little more than home brewing experience and a mature beer palate that he credits his father for imprinting in him from a young age. His Friday rituals growing up would be to eat pizza with his pops and have a few swigs of Anchor Steam. Anthony fondly remembers the moment when he was able to tell the enormous difference between craft beer and mass-produced beers like Budweiser.

Now, Anthony is his own boss in a business “that’s 95 percent hard labor and cleaning,” he says.

He barely keeps up with the demand for his beer.

When the taproom is open, it is always packed. Kegs are constantly blowing, and all beer brewed is consumed not long after. It seems that folks know where to fill their cups with the proper suds.

“We are only open a very limited number of hours a week,” Anthony says, “and we just get massively slammed every hour we are open. It’s awesome.”

Device Brewing is one of the first nano-breweries in our area. A nano-brewery being a small space with more limited brewing capabilities. Four-barrel kettles of beer are artisanally crafted about every two weeks. Currently, Device is looking into getting seven-barrel fermenters so they can double their production within the next year. This is an operation that will likely require the brewer to work 18-hour-long days.

There are a standard six beers usually on tap with a few rotating specialty beers such as a Track 7 collaboration and a black IPA. “What makes brewing tricky,” says Anthony, “is finding a constant in brewing and keeping a great beer true.

“Yeast strands are constantly changing and the art lies in being able to detect them and craft the beer as so.”

Sacramento’s beer scene is seemingly growing exponentially, but Device Brewing Company is making its way to the top of grain rightfully beside Track 7, Berryessa and Knee Deep brewing. Brewing beer is complicated. Yes, it’s delicious and fun to drink, but brewing craft beer is truly a labor of love. Brewing beer is expensive, it is physically strenuous, scientific at times and infiltrated with complicated aspects of business and legalities…all things that brewers like Anthony have become well acquainted with. However, Anthony is one of the local brewers who is managing to keep it small, off the grid, high in quality and extremely successful.

“I think that the Sacramento beer scene is something to be proud of,” says Anthony. “It’s not nearly up there with places like San Diego or Portland, but in a short amount of time, we have come a crazy long way.”

Ken Anthony will be a prominent fixture in this year’s Sacramento Beer Week, with Device kegs making an appearance at the Sacramento Brewers Showcase at the California Auto Museum on Feb. 27, 2014 and Kupros Bistro on March 1, 2014 among other locations. For a full rundown on where to find Device Brewing Company, go to Devicebrewing.com. For more about Sacramento Beer Week, go to Sacramentobeerweek.com.

Beer Notes

Words by Rob Lund

Now that you know the story behind Device Brewing Company, the question remains: How’s the beer? Here’s a rundown of Anthony’s impressive array of brews.

Derby Gurl American Amber Ale

The first beer in the lineup was the Derby Gurl American Amber, coming in at 5.2 percent ABV. Derby Gurl filled the glass with a true amber coloring and a thin lace of white head. While most Ambers tend to fall short on aroma and taste, Derby Gurl was bursting with caramel and roasted malt aroma. The first sip awoke the palate with a mild bitterness, and finished with a touch of caramel. The light body of this beer makes it especially easy to drink.

Whisper Sweet Nothings, Sweet Stout

The second beer in Device’s arsenal was the Whisper Sweet Nothings, Sweet Stout at 5.5 percent ABV. Although the name is a bit of a mouthful, the flavors did not disappoint. The beer was a beautiful midnight black with a dense toffee colored head. Coffee and bittersweet chocolate rose from the glass giving off a luring aroma. A smooth and creamy body gives way to layers of semi-sweet chocolate and a slight roast. The sweetness of this beer comes into play on the initial sip, and is caused by residual sugars left behind by the yeast.

Integral IPA

The Integral IPA was our natural progression through the beers. Device’s Double IPA holds an alcohol content of 7 percent, and is brewed in the West Coast style using massive amounts of hops. When set on the counter, the liquid in the glass was a hazy, tangerine hue, with a creamy white head. Enormous tropical fruit scents, with dank and resinous undertones came from this beer. Staying true to the West Coast style, the flavors were dominated by citrus fruit and a touch of bread-y grain flavor on the finish.

Russian Imperial Stout

Nearing the end of our tasting tour, we stepped into the abyss with the Russian Imperial Stout. This 9.5 percent ABV beer hides its alcohol incredibly well by masking it with chocolate and dark roasted coffee. This beer really changed into something incredible as it rose a few degrees in temperature. As it warmed, the aroma opened to a bouquet of fresh ground coffee and a spiciness of tobacco. Being a Russian Imperial Stout, this beer was definitely driven by hops leaving a sticky bitterness on the tongue.

Basilica 3XIPA

Saving the biggest and probably most popular Device beer for last, we found ourselves staring down the 10.5 percent ABV Basilica Triple IPA with Mosaic hops. This hazy, orange brew had an incredibly potent hop aroma that could be smelled from several feet away. Unlike the Double IPA, which had more citrus notes, the Basilica was driven by tropical fruits, lending a sweeter aroma. Overripe stone fruits such as peaches and nectarines were some of the flavors that came to mind, along with a sweet malt backbone that balanced the aggressive hops. Basilica is a remarkably smooth beer that drinks like something with half of the alcohol content.

Top notch chefs prepare for Sacramento’s first-ever burger battle

The first time Rodney Blackwell bit into a McDonald’s Quarter Pounder, he fell in love. But that was child’s play.

Blackwell, a Sacramento resident, entered the burger big leagues as an adult, ordering variations of the classic stack at fine diners, five-star restaurants and food trucks across the country.

In search of the perfect relationship between bun, patty and condiments, Blackwell started the blog and informational site http://burgerjunkies.com/. His tastes quickly sharpened as he approached burgers no holds barred. A patty topped with fried eggs? Do it. Fiery habañero sauce? Sure.

However, he still couldn’t decide on Sacramento’s champion burger. After attending the Denver Burger Battle, Blackwell realized a side-by-side comparison might answer the question and would also allow locals to vote for their favorites.

“I got inspired at the Denver Burger Battle,” Blackwell says. “It had sold out. There were 12 restaurants, people having a good time with great energy. I wanted to bring that to Sacramento.”

The goal of Blackwell’s burger battle on Sept. 18, 2012 at Raley Field in West Sacramento is twofold: to showcase the dining scene available in the Sacramento area and to raise awareness and much needed funding for a great cause.

Blackwell’s 9-year-old daughter Karina has battled with Crohn’s disease for the past four years. According to the Crohn’s and Colitis Foundation of America, the disease is a chronic inflammatory condition of the gastrointestinal tract that affects more than 700,000 people, causing loss of appetite and energy, and sometimes slowing growth and development in children.

“My daughter was diagnosed years ago and since I can’t cure the disease myself, I figured I’d do what I can to help those that are trying,” Blackwell says.

All the proceeds from the Sacramento Burger Battle will be donated to the local CCFA chapter. Blackwell had already raised $12,000 since announcing the battle, and tickets for the event are still available.

“For charity it’s a great feat in and of itself, but I’d still like to sell out tickets,” Blackwell says about the current donations and sales.

The $55 entry ticket covers the generous burger samples from 15 high-caliber restaurants; craft beer from Sierra Nevada, Ruhstaller and Lagunitas; wine tastings from Crystal Basin and Perry Creek; Woodchuck cider; non-alcoholic beverages; live music and parking.

Attendees will have to pace themselves with the burgers–despite being sample-size, several chefs plan to pack big flavors into those few bites.

Chef Jose Silva, known for his exotic meat patties at the Flaming Grill, says judges and attendees might get their chance at trying wild boar, antelope, goat, camel or even kangaroo.

“We try to keep it simple–with a good bun and sauce and high quality meat,” Silva says.

For Chef Pedro Depina of Ettore’s European Bakery and Restaurant, the burger bun is extremely important in making a top notch burger, “because it’s the first thing you taste.”

“We’re going to let our bun speak for itself,” Depina says, noting the buns are made at Ettore’s. “Then comes the meat, and we use all natural Niman Ranch.”

As for the other ingredients, Depina says freshness, quality and the marriage of the flavors are the best ways to know a burger is made well.

“We’re going to keep it classic,” he adds of the Ettore’s entry. “No bells and whistles, just in your face.”

Asked which Sacramento burger is his favorite, Depina has no shame.

“The one we make here, I eat one once a week, but don’t tell my wife,” he laughs.

Other major players in the battle include burger award-winner Thir13een, de Vere’s Irish Pub, Kupros Bistro, Shady Lady Saloon, The Porch, Squeeze Inn and several others.

“All the chefs, we’re all good friends,” says Depina. “We eat at each other’s restaurants so this will be a friendly throw-down.”

One local chef is not competing, but judging. Bret Bohlmann, chef and owner of Boulevard Bistro in Elk Grove, will be one of five judges. Blackwell says he reached out to Bohlmann because he makes a great burger, but his restaurant no longer has it on the menu so he figured judging would be his next best option.

Other judges include Congressman John Garamendi, food writer and blogger Erin Jackson, Corti Brothers Food Director Rick Mindermann and Executive Chef Mike Ward of Feeding Crane Farms.

Though Bohlmann has never judged a burger competition, he does have an idea for his approach that day. 

“First, it has to be visually appealing,” he says.

Then, he adds, the burger must have quality ingredients and be cooked properly.

From there, judges will look at the kinds of extra ingredients used and whether those ingredients “marry well–belong together so that when you take a bite, everything works,” says Bohlmann.

One concern Bohlmann does have is burning out on burger too early, meaning after a few, he doesn’t want all the different entries melding together to cause faulty judging.

“A burger is quite fatty. A meat patty can have 15 to 20 percent fat, which coats your mouth, so we need a palate cleanser,” he says. “It’s something to think about because you want to taste everyone’s unique creation.”

A light, refreshing pilsner might do the trick.

Bohlmann is also hoping the burger challenge will spark continued creativity to the already impressive menus and styles now available in Sacramento.

“I think this will make people rise up and create something new for their menus,” he says. “In the last 10 years we’ve really grown. Zagat came through and rated everybody, and we’re really putting our mark on California.”

Depina adds that the culinary landscape of Sacramento has changed for the better during the 20 years he’s been in the business, and a competition like this is comparable to other California cities that boast the best in dining.

“Sacramento is one of the heavy hitters in the food industry now, like Napa and San Francisco,” he says. “You don’t have to travel all the way over there to get good food. We’re the breadbasket of the state, with all this good local produce. We’re all pushing to eat in our own neighborhood, our own backyard.”

Blackwell has been doing just that for many years, but says he is looking forward to what the chefs come up with for the burger battle.

“I’ve tried them all, so I’m looking forward to trying them side by side,” Blackwell adds. “It’s hard to say when you spread out eating them one week at a time which is best. All of these are some of my favorites I’ve tried and reviewed.”

Blackwell also recently received a call from an organizer of the World Food Championships, which will be held in Las Vegas in November, asking if the burger battle could be used as a qualifier for the championship.

The stakes have been raised a bit because of this announcement, Blackwell says, but he feels the burger chefs of Sacramento would be able to represent their country well if any of them makes it to the world competition.

Sept. 18 is National Cheeseburger Day, and also the date of the Sacramento Burger Battle. This will be a slobber knocker of meaty proportions, so don’t miss out. For more information or to buy tickets, visit Sacburgerbattle.com. You must be 21 years or older to attend. Eat hearty knowing the proceeds will go toward a worthy cause. To learn more about the Northern California chapter of the Crohn’s and Colitis Foundation of America, go to http://ccfa.org/chapters/northerncalifornia/.

Kupros Bistro
1217 21st Street – Sacramento, Calif.

Words & Photos by Adam Saake

Kupro is Esperantan for copper. If you’re like me, you’re asking yourself, “What the hell is Esperanto?” Esperanto, a language all its own, was developed in the late 1800s as a way to create a middle ground for the people of planet Earth to speak with one another. But it never caught on, and now only a small percentage of people in the world care enough to learn it. Kupros Bistro, a wonderful new gastro-pub located in Midtown, will hopefully not suffer the same fate. If we could draw a comparison, although, it would be that Esperanto is apparently very easy to learn as Kupros’s menu is very easy to love.

What was once a popular costume shop by the name of Cheap Thrills is now a completely remodeled two-story destination for food and libations. Playing off the traditional English pub, Kupros offers a comfort food menu with a touch of finesse. Move over, fish and chips; step aside, bangers and mash–ciao, linguine and clams, bon jour duck confit Rueben.

On my late afternoon visit, the lunch crowd had dispersed and I had the second-story patio all to myself. Inside, a multitude of tables all set and ready to go loomed like a ghost soiree waiting to be possessed. “Banquets,” said my server. Hopefully, because the amount of seating available seemed a little ambitious for what is essentially a pub. Outside, the patio overlooked the busy motorcade that is 21st Street, and umbrellas lined the banister, shading diners from the lingering summer rays and the wind-disturbed pollen and tree debris. Downstairs had booth seating and the U-shaped bar looked very inviting if you like getting friendly with the bartenders. Their draft beer selection had some keepers, including a Belgian-style saison from Lost Abbey and an English-style cider from Fox Barrel. And intentional or not, there was a humorous coupling of Stone’s Arrogant Bastard Ale and Flying Dog’s Raging Bitch.

For the appetizer, I tried the fried pickles ($5) with a house tartar sauce. It’s of note to mention that all Kupros sauces are house-made, all the way down to the ketchup. Four lightly battered and fried wedges of tangy dill pickles are served modestly in a cocktail glass with a napkin back to absorb the excess oil. The tartar is pretty standard, but this dish doesn’t need to reach for the stars; it’s meant as a salty treat to go smashingly with a frosty pint. This isn’t a dish you grow tired of quickly and this is in part to the batter. It isn’t layered on so thick that you have a hard time finding the pickle.

It’s important to order the burger from time to time, because so many places do it differently. You never know when you’re going to stumble upon a truly great rendition of an American classic. As far as Sacramento goes, Kupros’s natural Angus burger with beer cheese, house relish and “drive-thru” dressing ($13) ranks up there in my top three. Aside from a great patty of beef cooked right and a fresh bun, the beer cheese turns this burger from good to great. This fondue-like concoction is a combination of cheddar cheese, lager beer and shallots, which is then smothered over the patty to make for coagulated goodness. Add some grilled onions and you’re dynamite.

I’m a salty and sweet kind of guy, and although dessert at lunch is a little overkill, I just couldn‘t resist. Amongst other interesting treats, Kupros does a vanilla bean panna cotta with chocolate cookies ($8) that have a frosting center (essentially a beefed-up Oreo) made by one of the Kupros pastry chefs, Jodie Chavious. Panna cotta is a traditional Italian custard usually made with cream, milk, sugar and gelatin and the flavors vary from caramel to blackberry. Chef John Gurnee throws a little buttermilk in there to give it a nice tang. This desert is uncomplicated, rich and fun to look at too. Indulge.

The dinner menu has some items not available during the day, including a delicious potted rabbit that I tried on a previous visit that was literally served in a latch-top pot. The kitchen stops serving at 10 p.m., so get your orders in before the night sneaks up on you. Also, Kupros is closed on Mondays and the kitchen takes a little break from 2—3 p.m. so plan accordingly.