There’s a scene in the ’80s flick Valley Girl in which the lead character, Julie Richman, is working a shift at her parents’ health food store and completely loses her shit when the cool guy she’s dating walks into the joint. Because, as Julie proclaims in the movie, “Like, it’s not cool at all! Like, it’s all this stuff that tastes like nothing and it’s supposed to be so good for you. Why couldn’t they, like, open a Pizza Hut or something?”

If Julie only knew that Pizza Huts would eventually give way to spots where the cool kids line up for quinoa power bowls with roasted veggies and turmeric-infused juices that have turned health food and juice shops into multimillion-dollar enterprises where, get this, you actually enjoy the food you are putting into your mouth.

To Julie’s credit, it wasn’t too long ago that most of the people doling out their hard-earned cash for expensive, high-powered juicers while preaching to the masses the benefits of juicing, were labeled disciples of the raw-food movement or celebrities who were willing to go on juice-only fasts, motivated by the belief that the key to achieving physical perfection was to adhere to a strict program of detoxification while sustaining themselves on extreme juice cleanses. Oh, by the way, we’re not talking about the frozen concentrated stuff procured from the local grocer but the rich, dense, nectar that can only come from pulverizing the flesh of ingredients like beets, carrots and spinach into a cold-pressed elixir.

But somewhere along the way, between the Hollywood set and the health-food junkies, the idea caught on and the people that didn’t originally subscribe to the trend started gulping it down when they realized that juice didn’t have to be an exercise in self-denial or part of some expensive cleanse and suddenly, cold-pressed juice morphed from a curiosity to an industry.

Looking to squeeze their way into the burgeoning juice business in Sacramento, longtime restauranteurs, caterers and advocates of the juicing and organic food lifestyle, Lisa Musilli Johnson, her husband and business partner Keith Musilli Johnson and son, Benjamin Olmsted, founded Metro Kitchen + Drinkery in the Warehouse Artist Lofts Public Market. For this family, their business is an extension of themselves and their philosophy about food. It’s not just a fad but rather a lifestyle ingrained in their very being.

“For me it was natural because of my upbringing,” Lisa explains. “My grandparents immigrated directly from Italy and [had] small gardens and farms. And when my children were young I cooked the way that my grandparents did and now all of my children are interested in a healthy, nutritional-based lifestyle.”

The menu at Metro is an ever-evolving play on the seasons. For the triumvirate, sourcing ingredients from local purveyors is imperative in sustaining their mission of bringing foodstuffs to the table that have fed the region’s hungry bellies for hundreds of years. Namely, heirloom varietals that still carry the same wallop of flavor that they did hundreds of years ago with an orchard they have developed on Lisa’s family property in Lake County.

“One of the things that really inspired our interest in cold-pressed juices and expanding that into Metro Kitchen + Drinkery is really our experience and interest in growing food and gardening,” Lisa explains. “There’s an orchard we established in anticipation of this sort of cafe and have multiple generations of family history of growing food and preparing food for the restaurant and cafe experience.”

“In fact, it’s a little bit of an experimental orchard because we’re trying to grow there, heirloom plants,” Keith continues. “And I don’t mean heirloom meaning, like, they were popular in the 1960s or now, but like a French pair from the 1700s and really, really vintage, if you can say that … the trees aren’t that big yet, but can we get it to where we have some really unique heirloom things that we can feature here—it’s a hope one day to see if we can get there.”

Until the fruits of their labor come to fruition at the orchard, the Musilli Johnsons have access to an abundance of fruits and vegetables with which to create their stunning selection of colorful salads, juices and soups.

“We thought there’s such an opportunity just in this area because we have a number of friends who are farmers and have developed many more friends who are farmers so we have an incredible access to farmers growing food that we can pick up this morning and make into dishes just by this afternoon,” Lisa says.

The dishes—like the sunny summer corn and squash salad bowl that boasts both raw and roasted corn, baby squash, juicy tomatoes, bright red peppers and sumptuous avocado, topped with a tangy lime vinaigrette or the sweet and savory organic peach and mozzarella sandwich drizzled with a balsamic reduction, perched on a bed of onion jam and nestled between soft pillows of whole grain bread, speak to their creator’s passion for food. While Keith tends to the food offerings, Olmsted takes the helm at concocting the perfect fruit and veggie combinations in crafting their cold-pressed juice selections.

“I create the menus and design the dishes. Lisa and I, before doing this, had been doing catering for a long, long time—like 15 years, here and there—and all that time we used to speak about how it was really her passion and she loved being in food service and I was doing other totally different professional things and then we decided it was time that we start this,” Keith explains.

But don’t let Metro’s cold-pressed, raw food, whole foods and organic-centric philosophy fool you—the eatery also caters to those who are more inclined to, well, a more carnivorous approach to sustaining themselves. With sandwich options that include ham and brie, curry chicken salad adorned with chewy golden raisins and a prosciutto offering slathered with organic sundried tomato tapenade, roasted red peppers and avocado.

As the cafe celebrates its one-year anniversary at the WAL Public Market, the trio is looking to the future and launching in the coming months a new branding program and introducing their brunch menu along with a suite of juice cleanse options. According to Olmsted, Metro’s juice architect, being nimble is key to producing a product that is both delicious and rich in nutrients.

“One of the things I do is keep up with the seasons, [for instance our juice], Summer Roots, fulfils an important role in the juice cleanse architecture,” Olmsted explains. “It has both red and purple phytonutrients in it—the micronutrients that come from plants—and so it’s important to have a juice that fills that role all year. But apples right now are both expensive and either from Washington or Chile and they’re not particularly good, so we’ve replaced the apples in the Summer Roots with watermelon and it lightens it up a bit, which is nice when the temperature gets to be in the hundreds.”

At this eatery, patrons most certainly taste the rainbow—which just isn’t a tasty endeavor but, according to Olmsted, is a gateway to better health.

“There are four key things to high-level nutrition that we follow,” Olmsted says. “One is balancing the macros—the fat, protein and carbohydrates—and the other three things are as you increase the percentage of calories from plants and decrease the percentage that come from animals, and increase the percentage of calories that come from whole foods and decrease the amount that come from refined foods, and as you increase the number of plant colors you eat per day you increase your longevity.”

Metro Kitchen + Drinkery is located inside WAL Public Market, located at 1104 R Street in Sacramento. For more info, go to Metrojuicecompany.com.

Changing with the Times

In the ’80s, the culinary landscape in America was at a crossroads: Across the nation voracious diners were relinquishing their steak knives, and squeamishness, in favor of a pair of chopsticks to embrace sushi’s raw state; chefs were dabbling in inexplicable versions of tried and true favorites (Wolfgang Puck’s experimentations with pizza come to mind); while others toyed with our appetites entirely with nouvelle cuisine—you know, those overwrought, outrageously priced plates that displayed more porcelain than actual food. It was indeed a brave new culinary world.

During that same time a local gastronome was taking on the dining scene in Sacramento. Unlike some of his contemporaries, Randy Paragary refrained from such novelties and instead focused on composed, yet accessible, dishes when, in 1983, he opened the doors to what would become the flagship of his epicurean empire, Paragary’s Bar and Oven.

Over the last 30 years the venerable eatery played host to marriage proposals, birthday celebrations and business negotiations. But during its tenure as one of the best restaurants in town, owners Paragary, his wife Stacy and chef Kurt Spataro decided it was time to do their own restaurant makeover—updating not only the bistro’s façade, but its interior, patio and menu. So, last spring the duo shuttered the doors and embarked on the journey to reinvigorate the esteemed establishment.

For 15 months, diners held their collective breath in anticipation of the million-dollar rebirth of Paragary’s Midtown gastronomical mecca. They were rewarded for their patience with a decidedly French take on the classic that’s modern without being too heavy-handed in its design—subtle touches are sprinkled throughout the space that are evocative of both old world charm and a nod to modernity. The updated menu mimics that sentiment as well. A few of the hits include fluffy pillows of sheep’s milk ricotta gnocchi intertwined with luscious chanterelle mushrooms, sweet corn and fava beans afloat in a parmesan brodo; a bold mesquite grilled quail dish intermingled with sweet corn soubise, fennel and arugula sprinkled with bits of bacon in a sweet bourbon marmalade; and an appetizer of thinly sliced, chilled lamb’s tongue adorned with frisée, French breakfast radish and a sauce gribiche—an herbaceous mayonnaise-style, egg concoction riddled with the briny goodness that only the caper can lend.

Submerge recently sat down with Spataro to chat about the old, the new and the unexpected at the new Paragary’s.

What is the inspiration for the food that you’re doing here now?
When I was very young, maybe 19 or 20, I stumbled upon Chez Panisse in Berkeley … I had dinner that night and it had a really huge impact on me. [When] the Chez Panisse menu cookbook came out, I got a copy and I read it like a novel, from cover to cover, and I cooked my way through it. That whole experience, discovering Chez Panisse, going there and eating as much as I could, collecting the menus, studying the menus, studying that book [and] using my experiences at Chez Panisse as a reference really set me in a direction. That experience was very formative.

What was the reason for revamping both the space and the menu?
The space needed it, for one. It really needed to be updated. I think the menu is a collaboration between myself and the chefs … and the history of Paragary’s certainly influenced the menu, but there are so many things that have happened since Paragary’s opened 32 years ago, in terms of the culinary scene, and we wanted to incorporate those things [but] still be somewhat faithful to the original concept.

What was the most audacious food trend when Paragary’s first opened in 1983?
Things that were introduced at that time, you know, goat cheese was kind of a new product at that time, and things like sun-dried tomatoes. So, I guess what was silly about it was some of those things got overused. Soon there was sun-dried tomatoes on everything and goat cheese on everything. So, that to me would be it—the overuse of trendy stuff.

I saw chilled lamb’s tongue on the new menu. What’s your take on “snout to tail” eating?
I think it’s great. Chefs like the weird stuff. We like to use interesting things. It’s not that interesting to cook a boneless chicken breast, or challenging. It’s much more interesting and challenging to take something like a lamb’s tongue, or oxtail, or tripe, you know, something that is very unappetizing in its raw state and you have to use a lot of technique to make it delicious. So it’s always fun and rewarding to take something like an underappreciated ingredient and apply technique and time to it and make something delicious that you would never make at home.

What do you think is the most significant change to the restaurant?
Physically, I would say it’s completely different. I think the spirit is very similar; it’s intended to be comfortable and a place where you can come any time of the day and feel comfortable … but the appearance is the most strikingly different thing.

Was there anything in the restaurant that is no longer here that was heartbreaking to lose in the redesign?
I don’t know if you remember the mural that was painted on the ceiling; that was there from day one and it was hand-painted by someone. So seeing that being peeled off of the ceiling was … well, it wasn’t sad, but it was, “Wow, we’re really changing things.”

How do you stay relevant in an industry where diners are fickle and restaurants come and go?
I think you really have to pay attention to what’s going on, and there’s so much information out there from food blogs to magazines, cookbooks. I’m a voracious reader and collector of cookbooks, and traveling and going out to eat at other restaurants, all of it. Really trying to stay abreast.

Being in the business for so long, what advice would you give to a young entrepreneur thinking about getting into the restaurant business?
Besides, don’t do it [chuckling]? I think my advice would be, just be really sure of what your concept is. Secondly, don’t overextend yourself. I think it’s a mistake for a first-time restaurateur to go deep into debt. I think it’s smarter to create a more modest concept, sort of prove to yourself and to your customers that this is going to fly. In order to mitigate the risk it’s smart to start small—really be clear on what your concept is and do it great.

What is the most remarkable change that you have seen in the local food scene?
The level of sophistication and quality. I think the bar continues to get raised each year and that’s great for the diner, because the restaurateurs have to compete with each other and the chefs have to compete with each other. So the more people out there doing good things the more we have to step our game up.

Paragary’s Bar and Oven is located at 1401 28th Street in Sacramento. For more information, go to Paragarys.com. You can also call (916) 457-5737.

Sticky Gator

2322 K Street • Sacramento

In a city like Sacramento that is teeming with competing top-notch restaurants, it’s essential to their survival for restaurateurs to carve a niche—either by doing something completely different than anyone else, or by focusing on being the best at one aspect of what they offer.

Take, for example, Sticky Gator, a recently opened barbecue and soul food eatery on 24th and K streets next to Golden Bear. Throw a rock in any direction, and you’ll hit Sandra Dee’s, Tank House BBQ and Bar, T&R Taste of Texas or other barbecue spots that seem innumerable as the stars. It’s a sticky situation.

So what makes Sticky Gator stand out in a crowd? In this writer’s opinion, it is not that they have the best barbecue food available in the land (although it was good), but their speedy service, heaping portions and great location that shine.

Having recently visited New Orleans, I had the opportunity to try the best Louisiana Cajun, Creole and soul food in the world, so in fairness to Sticky Gator, their barbecue and soul food is delicious, but just doesn’t compare with Mr. B’s Bistro on Royal Street, or even locally, Tank House. But Sticky Gator does make for a good feast in Midtown where the parking is easy and your food is delivered almost instantly.

Additionally, what first struck me as expensive resulted in four filling meals, making for a good investment. I ordered the Lil Sticky Platter, which comes with two regular side choices and the daily special, which was chicken and sausage gumbo served with cornbread, totaling about $25. The initial sticker shock subsided when I quickly was served enough food to feed a family.

Although the ambiance is clean and comfortable, the plating of the food ain’t fancy. Everything is served in biodegradable to-go containers—no china for you—but that makes it all the more speedy to dip when you’ve had enough, without having to ask for a box, because chances are, you won’t be cleaning your “plate.”

Going back to the look and feel of Sticky Gator, the outside is garishly blanketed with bright, alarming colors (much like a restaurant in the French Quarter), and their mascot, Sticky (a gator), is painted on the front and the side of the building. Patrons can either sit inside at spacious booths amid a red, yellow and green color scheme and check out walls lined with photographs of blues singers and gig posters; or they can chill in the sunshine at patio tables between the sidewalk and bustling K Street, and people watch.

I sat down at a booth by a large sunlit window to go in on this massive mountain of grub. My Lil Sticky Platter choices were the barbecue tri-tip (ordered spicy), mashed potatoes with gravy and collard greens. The tri-tip was thinly sliced and a little fatty for my tastes, but juicy and flavorful, and the homemade spicy barbecue sauce wasn’t crazy-spicy, but had some kick and was well-balanced with tartness. Mashed potatoes with gravy is what I would want as my last meal before I went to jail or died, and I was happy with these—nice and lumpy, chunks of beef in the gravy, and savory without being overly salty. The collard greens were underwhelming, soaked in an oily liquid and seemingly only self-flavored, but I like my greens so I ate ‘em up.

Everyone does gumbo differently, and I did not prefer the Sticky Gator way. It was super chunky, with just a hint of broth, riddled with okra and also comprised of corn, celery, tomatoes, onions, chicken and sausage. The accompanying cornbread was again, a lion’s share, and was a bit dry.

Other entrée options include barbecue pulled pork, ribs, hot links, andouille sausage and fried chicken or catfish. Sticky Gator boasts a plethora of side choices from black-eyed peas to mac and cheese, and also offers a list of sandwiches.

And if your gut ain’t busted yet or you brought your sweet tooth along, there are a ton of dessert options in a display case just beyond the primary ordering counter. Like Sticky Gator’s predecessor, Rick’s Dessert Diner, which used to be housed in the same spot and has since changed locations, Sticky Gator attempts to lure you astray from your New Year’s resolutions with everything from chocolate mousse to French toast bread pudding, cookies to pies, cheesecakes, lemon bars, cakes…enough eye candy to give you diabetes just looking upon it. The desserts are made by Vesela Peneva, owner of Desserts by Vesela.

The owners of Sticky Gator, Lisa Nannini and Rodney Ray, are also its chefs, and are responsible for all of the cooking. Ray is also the owner of T&R Taste of Texas on Broadway, and Nannini, along with her husband, also owns Delta Restaurant Supply and Party Rentals, which provides catering services. The trio has know each other for a long time, has worked together in the past at catering events and decided to team up Nannini’s soul food skills with Ray’s barbecue expertise. Nannini also fell in love with soul food on a visit to New Orleans.

Says Nannini, “We consider our restaurant to be a fast casual place. Our customers are able to see all of the food and so they know exactly what they are getting. We also allow our customers to taste samples so they are sure to love their choices… I think what makes us different from other barbecue restaurants is the number of our home-cooked soul food sides. Many of our sides are recipes handed down from our families. We truly offer ultimate comfort food.”

I’m not sure if any of you readers noticed, but when the paint first went up at Sticky Gator, the painted-on signage above the entrance read, “Sticky Fingers.” Having a dirty mind and an eighth grade sense of humor, I immediately connoted the restaurant name with you-know-what. So I wondered, when I saw that they’d changed the name to Sticky Gator prior to their grand opening, did they do so because I wasn’t the only person whose mind went straight to the gutter?

But nah, I came to find out it was a cease and desist, as there is already a Sticky Fingers chain on the East Coast. Nannini looks on the bright side: “I worked on our alligator mascot, ‘Sticky’ for a long time to get him just right for our New Orleans, Louisiana swamp-themed restaurant, and so it actually worked out great because our customers love our alligator and our T-shirts.”

Sticky Gator is sure to stick around with its impossible-to-miss exterior in the heart of Midtown, and its daunting mounds of fast and hearty barbecue and soul food fare. And if you’re having a bad day, Sticky Gator is the perfect place to eat your feelings.

Sticky Gator is open Monday – Friday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from noon to 8 p.m. Visit Facebook.com/stickygator or call 382-9178 for more info.

Thai Canteen
1501 16th Street • Sacramento

After getting settled in cozy downtown Davis for more than two years, restaurant owner, T, is ready to take on the big city.

Coming from a successful Thai restaurant in a college town, the Thai Canteen has opened a second location on the block of 16th and O in downtown Sacramento. The owners, T, his sister and her boyfriend are excited to feed the city with traditional Thai food but with a modern twist.

At first glance you might have a difficult time realizing it is a Thai restaurant because of the modern look and appeal. Instead of a formal sit down restaurant with white tablecloths and a server waiting for your every need, the canteen has a more relaxed and comfortable environment. There are wooden benches, green painted walls, small lights hanging from the ceiling, a water station, bar and front counter to give it more of the “hang out and sit for a bit” vibe, explained T.

“Once you walk into [a] Thai restaurant they really stick to old and formal. [My sister and I] wanted to do something new about Thai restaurants. So when people come in you can feel something different,” explained T sitting inside the Canteen.

Since opening the new location two weeks ago, T and his sister are putting in 10 to 15 hour days to keep up with both restaurants. He is planning to add more modern artwork to the walls, add food specials and, with a liquor license on the way, possibly start happy hour.

“Within a month everything will be together,” T said with a smile. “After everything is ready and set up, you guys are going to love it.”

But judging from the dinner crowd on a Wednesday night it seems Sacramento already loves it. But don’t let a few touch-ups and the modern look distract you from the delicious menu; Thai Canteen has plenty of fresh and authentic food to offer. The menu is divided up into five different categories: Rice Plates, Salads, Soup, Noodles and Snacks. And if you weren’t hungry before you walked into the Thai Canteen you will soon be after you read the items listed on the menu and will become overwhelmed with curry, rice, prawns, vegetables and spices. The majority of the plates on the menu range from $7 to $8 and the appetizers are almost all $5 making it an affordable lunch or dinner for everyone.

My feast for the evening included, Pad Med Mamuang, Pad Thai, crispy taro fries, Thai iced tea and fried banana with green tea ice cream for dessert.

I started with a refreshing and cold Thai Iced tea that made me forget about the previous 110-degree weekend in Sacramento. The Pad Med Mamuang had stir-fry cashews, water chestnuts, onions, roasted chilies, a small dome of white rice on the side and chicken (for the rice plates you have the options of choosing chicken, pork, beef or tofu). The chicken was covered in a rich spicy brown sauce that went perfectly with the crunchy water chestnuts and onions.

Up next were the crispy taro fries. After eating this I officially have a new favorite fry; they made regular French fries seem greasy and bland. And normally the word fry doesn’t seem to match a Thai restaurant but the Canteen serves up taro fries that resemble three small hash browns, which were crispy on the outside but soft and warm in the middle.

For dessert I couldn’t resist to order the fried banana with green tea ice cream, and I had no regrets. The fried banana was not what I expected. It was a warm, cooked banana wrapped up a mini egg roll-like shell topped with sweet sauce. The fried banana with a side of ice cream was the best way to end the perfect meal.

The best part about going out with friends to a restaurant is that you get to sample a little bit off their plates. It also seemed fitting to bring a big group, because we were not only eating but socializing in the Thai Canteen. Along with my main meal I got to sample the Pad Thai, steak salad and the Pad Si Ew (rice noodles stir fried with broccoli and egg in sweet and sour sauce) and the coconut juice that contained giant slices of fresh coconut on the bottom. Everything I sampled left me wanting to come back to get every dish for myself.

If you live in Davis or Sacramento, you can now experience traditional Thai food with a modern take that is affordable, delicious and will leave you wanting more. If you are a night owl that craves food late at night the Thai Canteen is open late hours Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. and Sunday through Monday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Welcome these owners to Sacramento the right way and grab a friend to dine out and hang out at the Thai Canteen.

Kupros Bistro
1217 21st Street – Sacramento, Calif.

Words & Photos by Adam Saake

Kupro is Esperantan for copper. If you’re like me, you’re asking yourself, “What the hell is Esperanto?” Esperanto, a language all its own, was developed in the late 1800s as a way to create a middle ground for the people of planet Earth to speak with one another. But it never caught on, and now only a small percentage of people in the world care enough to learn it. Kupros Bistro, a wonderful new gastro-pub located in Midtown, will hopefully not suffer the same fate. If we could draw a comparison, although, it would be that Esperanto is apparently very easy to learn as Kupros’s menu is very easy to love.

What was once a popular costume shop by the name of Cheap Thrills is now a completely remodeled two-story destination for food and libations. Playing off the traditional English pub, Kupros offers a comfort food menu with a touch of finesse. Move over, fish and chips; step aside, bangers and mash–ciao, linguine and clams, bon jour duck confit Rueben.

On my late afternoon visit, the lunch crowd had dispersed and I had the second-story patio all to myself. Inside, a multitude of tables all set and ready to go loomed like a ghost soiree waiting to be possessed. “Banquets,” said my server. Hopefully, because the amount of seating available seemed a little ambitious for what is essentially a pub. Outside, the patio overlooked the busy motorcade that is 21st Street, and umbrellas lined the banister, shading diners from the lingering summer rays and the wind-disturbed pollen and tree debris. Downstairs had booth seating and the U-shaped bar looked very inviting if you like getting friendly with the bartenders. Their draft beer selection had some keepers, including a Belgian-style saison from Lost Abbey and an English-style cider from Fox Barrel. And intentional or not, there was a humorous coupling of Stone’s Arrogant Bastard Ale and Flying Dog’s Raging Bitch.

For the appetizer, I tried the fried pickles ($5) with a house tartar sauce. It’s of note to mention that all Kupros sauces are house-made, all the way down to the ketchup. Four lightly battered and fried wedges of tangy dill pickles are served modestly in a cocktail glass with a napkin back to absorb the excess oil. The tartar is pretty standard, but this dish doesn’t need to reach for the stars; it’s meant as a salty treat to go smashingly with a frosty pint. This isn’t a dish you grow tired of quickly and this is in part to the batter. It isn’t layered on so thick that you have a hard time finding the pickle.

It’s important to order the burger from time to time, because so many places do it differently. You never know when you’re going to stumble upon a truly great rendition of an American classic. As far as Sacramento goes, Kupros’s natural Angus burger with beer cheese, house relish and “drive-thru” dressing ($13) ranks up there in my top three. Aside from a great patty of beef cooked right and a fresh bun, the beer cheese turns this burger from good to great. This fondue-like concoction is a combination of cheddar cheese, lager beer and shallots, which is then smothered over the patty to make for coagulated goodness. Add some grilled onions and you’re dynamite.

I’m a salty and sweet kind of guy, and although dessert at lunch is a little overkill, I just couldn‘t resist. Amongst other interesting treats, Kupros does a vanilla bean panna cotta with chocolate cookies ($8) that have a frosting center (essentially a beefed-up Oreo) made by one of the Kupros pastry chefs, Jodie Chavious. Panna cotta is a traditional Italian custard usually made with cream, milk, sugar and gelatin and the flavors vary from caramel to blackberry. Chef John Gurnee throws a little buttermilk in there to give it a nice tang. This desert is uncomplicated, rich and fun to look at too. Indulge.

The dinner menu has some items not available during the day, including a delicious potted rabbit that I tried on a previous visit that was literally served in a latch-top pot. The kitchen stops serving at 10 p.m., so get your orders in before the night sneaks up on you. Also, Kupros is closed on Mondays and the kitchen takes a little break from 2—3 p.m. so plan accordingly.

Magpie Caterers Market & Cafe
1409 R Street, suite 102, Sacramento

If you could take words meaning “unexpected,” “in a good way” and “fulfilled” and put them into one word, that is exactly how I would describe my luncheon experience at Magpie Caterers Market & Café.

Strolling up to the newly finished half-block brick building, I was shocked I hadn’t noticed the Midtown renovation. The temperate, but overcast afternoon had just a bit of a breeze and demanded an outdoor eating sesh. Crossing the very threshold into the embrace of the Magpie Market & Café, I instantly felt transplanted to a perfect metropolis far, far away. Who’d have known it could take so little, or that one little market café and its caretakers could create such a fulfilling scenario.

When making a decision on what to eat at the counter with gourmet food on full display, I wasn’t overwhelmed with choices or ingredients. There’s a solid set of certain items featured daily, but the market café also features revolving specials and soups. With actual plates of the specials on display, there’s no guessing whether or not the ensemble selection is appetizing.

Although the roasted carrot with parsley oil soup of the day was my top choice, they were fresh out by the time I arrived that mid-afternoon. That was unfortunate, but led me to choose the grilled free range chicken and chipotle cheddar sandwich with organic black bean salad ($9.25). Viewing all the salads, a golden beet, orange and basil salad caught my eye, and I asked to have it accompany my panini, supplementing the black bean salad. My lunch buddy chose the signature Fra’Mani sampler ($9.75), two half sandwiches featuring different Italian meats from Fra’Mani Handcrafted Salumi in Berkeley.

The baked goods distracted me from the beverages and by the time I spontaneously ordered a cinnamon pear scone with sage, I realized I had no room left for liquids. My buddy ordered a fresh lemonade that was tart and served with a sprig of mint.

The grilled chicken sandwich was warm, with tender chicken on crunchy ciabatta bread, with white chipotle cheddar and cilantro sprigs. Guacamole sans jalapeños and tomatoes accompanied as an optional spread. I think guac is only avocado dip without tomatoes, but smoky ground chilies seemed to fill the space nicely. The golden beets were from-the-garden fresh (like all of the veggies!) and surprisingly seasoned with basil, olive oil and tons of wonderfully cracked peppercorn.

The attention to detail given in creating the Fra’Mani sampler is obvious. Two simple-as-meat-and-ciabatta bread sandwiches were presented side by side like Italian tacos and served with a mixed spring greens salad garnished with shaved fennel and fennel seeds. One sandwich featured traditional dry cured salami and topped with grilled red peppers that were smoky, but not at all sweet. The other, presenting a cooked cotto salami that had a wonderful honey ham quality with lightly pickled red onion served atop.

We didn’t necessarily get lots of food, but we were quite full. It’s strange how very fresh, flavorful, high quality food has a way of doing that to you.

Although dining was a casual order-at-the-counter protocol, the service was great and genuine. Food was delivered to our table and staff followed up for any needs. Both of the owners were behind the counter and delivering food and I have a feeling they’re at the café most days.
Janel Inouye and Ed Roehr have been homies and partners in fine food for many years. After growing up in Sacramento, Inouye and Roehr worked together and separately in locations all over the U.S. and abroad before deciding to open their own catering company four years ago. Magpie Caterers Market & Café is not new to Sacramento, but it’s relocation from Del Paso to Midtown is.

Inouye and Roehr shared more about their company that they started in the “bread basket of the state” because Sacramento is “the place to be if you wanted to make interesting food, seasonally,” according to Roehr.

When people choose to dine out for fine food, they have different expectations for the price and service. Inouye and Roehr opened a market café to offer people a more casual environment, where they enjoy fine food and feel free to do as they please in a café setting, Roehr said.
“[We offer] nicer quality food, but little bit more approachable, a little more affordable,” Inouye said.

“I really hope people come and use the space,” Roehr said. “And come and see what we have to offer.”

I found my lunch to be a very fulfilling experience. My appetite was engaged and satiated and my spirits raised from the setting, service and sandwiches.

I honestly couldn’t find a thing wrong with the Magpie Caterers Market & Café or the food it offers. For what it is, it seems to be perfect. I can’t wait to go back for dinner.